First: of all moulds on a whole piece of meat need to be visibly seen: white or greyish-white mould is better when spread evenly. Green mould is also acceptable, but not black. When the meat is sliced, it must have a uniform colour, with the fatty or white marble part – yellowish means that the meat is rancid – shiny and slightly humid, synonymous with good ageing. Marbling is important in whole pieces; in other words, it is the streaks of fat that ensure softness and a well-matured meat.

Taste: Gustatory proof is determined by the ability to isolate the saltiness, the dominant factor in cold meats. And, in some cases, spices are important, especially in sausage meats.

Odour: It is the flavour of meat, or rather the fatty parts that have the most important organoleptic qualities. The principal aromas must recall animal sensations, leaves, thicket, musk, chestnuts, dried fruit, olive oil and mushrooms. It is the succulence and buttery quality of the meat that is important: it must look as if it will melt in your mouth; and the relative acidity must not dominate the sensations of taste.

Once: the choice has been made and the product served at the table, the everlasting problem arises as to the best wine to serve with the meats. It might seem an easy solution, given that cold cuts are generally offered as an antipasto, which usually calls for a white - still or sparkling - wine. But is it a good choice?

And are we limiting ourselves by embracing this habit?

Indeed, when strong distinguishing qualities tend to dominate certain foods, especially in central and southern Italy, where spices and chilli peppers are used in abundance, white wines prevail; however, spumante, with its sparkling effect, holds up well in all cases and is also an outstanding neutraliser of fat.
It is better still to serve a good-bodied rosé, or a light red wine, or even a sparkling wine. In Emilia, the land of the great pork butchers, it is customary to drink Lambrusco as an accompaniment with cold cuts. But if meats are consumed between meals, then an unusual combination with Asti Moscato may be tried. Even though this is unacceptable by connoisseurs who think it breaks all the golden rules about the “right” wine, it does go well. It is the sparkling element that is the fat neutraliser; the sweet residue curtails the saltiness; and the natural zest of this wine upholds the spicy sensations well.

(Excerpt from ‘Italia Slow’).